Vol. 12 No. 2
September, 2006
Roots and branches


The way we ate in 1914: “A Typical Russian Mennonite Menu

(from manuscript in possession of the Mennonite Historical Society of BC) translated by John B. Toews.

Around 1980 J. G. Neufeld of Fresno, California allowed me to Xerox a manuscript in his possession compiled by a D. Peters. He did not supply me with any further information about the author, who
provides varied descriptions of pre-revolutionary Russian Mennonite life. Neufeld had a life-time interest in things Russian Mennonite. My long time research assistant, Katherine Hooge of Saskatoon made
an excellent transcription of sections of the manuscript in 1981.[1]

July, August, September
Sunday Breakfast White coffee, tea, fruit Platz
  Lunch Roast mutton with fruit, potatoes, fruit juices, bread
  Fesper Tea, fruit juice, rhubarb Platz
  Supper Buttersuppe[2], buttered brown bread
Monday Breakfast White coffee, fruit Platz, Ruehrei
  Lunch Kjieltje, fried ham, brown bread, watermelons, melons, Bulki
  Fesper White coffee, white bread with rhubarb marmalade
  Supper Cooked barley porridge, butter, brown bread
Tuesday Breakfast White coffee, Ruehrei, white bread, syrup
  Lunch Green bean soup and Schnetki
  Fesper Watermelons, melons, Bulki, syrup
  Supper Buttermilk Mus, buttered bread, eggs
Wednesday Breakfast White coffee, Schnetki, fried potatoes, brown bread
  Lunch Rhubarb Mus, fried ham, brown bread
  Fesper Watermelons, melons, Bulki
  Supper Cherry Mus, fried potatoes, brown bread
Thursday Breakfast White coffee, white bread, marmalade
  Lunch Cherry Wareniki with sauce (sunflower oil with cream)
  Fesper Watermelons, melons, Bulki, butter
  Supper Boiled potatoes in jackets with gravy (sunflower oil with cream)
Friday Breakfast White coffee, white bread, syrup, fried potatoes, brown bread
  Lunch Rhubarb Piroschki, thick sour milk
  Fesper Watermelons, melons, Bulki, butter
  Supper Sweet boiled milk with bread, Glomskuchen
Saturday Breakfast White coffee, white bread, Ruehrei, brown bread
  Lunch Beans fried in onion fat, clabbered milk, brown bread
  Fesper Watermelons, melons, Bulki, butter
  Supper Armer Ritter, sweet milk with bread crumbs

There were several things that I found interesting about the menu aside from its calorie count.

  1. The rarity of roast chicken, beef and mutton on the menu. If the menu is somewhat representative the use of eggs must have been rather liberal. Peters cites 150 chickens as normal for summer, down to 75 in winter , by spring to 40. Why did the flock not make it to the dinner table more often? Meat (usually pork) as a major item on the menu is rare.
  2. The seasonal use of watermelons and melons is well documented in the July and October menus. Peters estimated that the average farm produced 500 pood (8190 kilograms) of watermelons. Since watermelons are a known diuretic and since they were consumed at Fesper one wonders about calm and restful nights in the Russian Mennonite home.
  3. Special thanks to Lydia Janz/Toews and her consultants and to Agatha Klassen. They helped to enlarge my knowledge of Russian Mennonite foods.
  4. 1 This menu is also found in First Mennonite Villages in Russia, pp. 80-81. (N.J. Kroeker, 1981); in several cases, I have substituted  Kroeker’s  translation of the food item.  (ed.)